The W Trek is world famous, but for Isobel Gilks, it was personal. Patagonia became the backdrop for a story of discovery and endurance.
The Mountainous Test Of Will
When I first set foot on Patagonian soil, my first thought was that I’d stepped into an alternate reality, a completely different world. Puerto Natales stands between something similar to the Wild West and the Industrial Revolution. A city of corrugated iron, swallowed up by snow capped mountains and an immense landscape. Being completely honest, I’d never felt more out of my depth than I did stepping off that plane and into the notorious icy Patagonian wind.
I think what registered with me the most was an overwhelming urge to achieve my purpose there. Of course I had an actual job to do, inspiring like minded adventurers to travel to Patagonia with BlueGreen Adventures, but I also had my own personal goal. I arrived in Southern Chile determined to push myself mentally more than I ever had before. I had no idea what to expect, I certainly wasn’t fit enough and once settled in our remote cabin in Sierra Dorotea I began to ask myself If this was going to be possible. I suspected the physical and metal demands were going to test my sheer force of will.
With no option of backing out, I began my first day of hiking and I found myself on the western flank of Torres Del Paine National Park, facing up Mount Ferrier.
As I dragged myself up its steep incline the noise seemed to fall away. All of a sudden I wasn’t worrying about trivial matters from home or questioning my abilities. It was just me and this massive mountain. I made sure to take in the breathtaking scenery at each of my stops; really breathe in the clean air and attempt to absorb what I was achieving. And when I reached the top, I stood on the rocks at Mount Ferrier’s high peak and opened my arms wide to the view. That was the exact moment I fell in love with hiking. Something I’d never done before.
I tend to hear the phrase ‘our trip went by so quickly’ from almost everyone I meet. They often follow up with ‘we did so much I can’t remember it all.’ That is absolutely not the case for me with this trip. I remember every single detail like I’m reliving it all over again. I remember our four days of intense hiking on the W trail, Chilean Patagonia’s most famous and popular trail. I have the distinct recollection of arriving at the Grey Glacier camp after day one, feeling exhausted and proud at the same time, all while having no idea that it was by far going to be the easiest day. I can still hear the cracking and crumbling of the glaciers echoing across the French Valley on day three; the crunch of our crampons against the ice during the glacier hike. I remember everything. It’ll be stored in my brain forever and Patagonia will always have a place in my heart.
It’s hard to put into words what a magical place it is. When you witness the sun set and burn across the evening sky in reds and oranges; when you quietly watch the guanaco’s nibble on the grass in the vast open landscape; when you reach the summit of the mountain and leave your heart at the top. Then you will know for sure that you have experienced Patagonia. I could go on and on about it, but never do it justice.
I guess you’ll just have to see it for yourself.
Isobel Gilks
March 2025
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